What does it take to climb the world’s deadliest peaks without oxygen? Meet Reinhold Messner, the Italian mountaineering legend who redefined what’s humanly possible.
Reinhold Andreas Messner isn’t just another climber – he’s the bloke who rewrote the rulebook for high-altitude mountaineering. As the first person to summit all 14 eight-thousanders without supplemental oxygen, this South Tyrolean adventurer has become synonymous with pushing human limits to their absolute breaking point.
But there’s so much more to this fascinating character than just his mountain conquests. From his tragic early expeditions to his recent family controversies, Messner’s life story reads like an epic adventure novel that keeps you gripped from start to finish.
Quick Facts About Reinhold Messner
| Detail | Information |
|---|---|
| Full Name | Reinhold Andreas Messner |
| Born | 17 September 1944, Brixen, Italy |
| Age | 80 years old (as of 2025) |
| Nationality | Italian (South Tyrolean) |
| Height | 1.73m (5’8″) |
| Weight | 68kg (150 lbs) |
| Current Wife | Diane Schumacher (married 2021) |
| Children | 4 (Magdalena, Anna, LÃ yla, Simon) |
| Net Worth | £8-12 million (€10-37 million estimates vary) |
Biography
Born in the German-speaking region of South Tyrol, young Reinhold was practically destined for greatness in the mountains. His father, Josef, a teacher, first introduced him to climbing at the tender age of five on a three-thousand-metre peak in the Dolomites.
Growing up as the second of nine children in the Messner household meant competition was fierce, but it also meant having built-in climbing partners. His younger brother Günther became his most trusted companion on early Alpine adventures.
By his teenage years, Messner had already completed over 500 climbs in the Dolomites alone – an absolutely staggering number that showcased his natural talent and relentless drive. During the 1960s, he became a pioneer of the “Alpine style” philosophy, which prioritised lightweight gear, minimal support, and swift, self-reliant expeditions over the traditional siege tactics employed by larger teams.
Career
The Himalayan Breakthrough (1970s)
Messner’s first major Himalayan expedition in 1970 was both triumphant and tragic. He and his brother Günther successfully scaled Nanga Parbat via the previously unconquered Rupal face, but disaster struck during the descent. Günther perished in an avalanche, and Reinhold barely survived, losing several toes to severe frostbite.
This devastating experience could have ended his career, but instead, it seemed to fuel his determination. The tragedy haunted him throughout his climbing years, yet he continued pushing boundaries with an almost supernatural resilience.
The Everest Revolution (1978-1980)
1978: The Impossible Made Possible The mountaineering world was left speechless when Messner and Austrian Peter Habeler reached Everest’s summit without supplemental oxygen. Medical experts had declared this feat impossible, believing the human body simply couldn’t function at such extreme altitudes without artificial assistance.
Their success on 8 May 1978 didn’t just break records – it shattered preconceived notions about human potential and opened up entirely new possibilities for high-altitude climbing.
1980: Going Solo Two years later, Messner did something even more extraordinary. He soloed Everest from the Tibetan side during monsoon season – widely considered the most dangerous time to attempt such a climb. His account of reaching the summit alone is both haunting and inspiring:
“I was in continual agony; I have never in my whole life been so tired as on the summit of Everest that day. I just sat and sat there, oblivious to everything.”
The Ultimate Achievement: All 14 Eight-Thousanders
Between 1970 and 1986, Messner systematically conquered all 14 peaks exceeding 8,000 metres – every single one without supplemental oxygen. This unprecedented achievement required not just physical prowess but also incredible mental fortitude, strategic planning, and an almost inhuman tolerance for risk.
Some of his most notable ascents include:
- Nanga Parbat (1970, 1978) – First ascent via Rupal face, later solo via new route
- Mount Everest (1978, 1980) – First oxygen-free ascent, first solo ascent
- K2 (1979) – Led successful team to world’s second-highest peak
- Gasherbrum I & II (1984) – First traverse between two eight-thousanders
Messner’s appetite for extreme challenges didn’t end with the fourteen peaks. His post-mountaineering adventures include:
Antarctic Crossing (1989-90) Together with German explorer Arved Fuchs, Messner became the first person to traverse Antarctica via the South Pole entirely on foot – no animals, no machines. Their 1,740-mile journey took 92 gruelling days.
Gobi Desert Solo Trek (2004) At age 60, when most people are thinking about retirement, Messner tackled a 1,250-mile solo trek across Mongolia’s Gobi Desert. Because apparently, normal holidays just aren’t challenging enough for some people!
Books
Messner isn’t just an extraordinary climber – he’s also a prolific author with over 80 published books translated worldwide. His writing spans various genres, from raw expedition memoirs to philosophical essays on the relationship between humans and mountains.
Notable Publications:
- “The Crystal Horizon” – Vivid account of his solo Everest ascent
- “The Naked Mountain” – Brutally honest memoir about the Nanga Parbat tragedy
- “All 14 Eight-Thousanders” (1987) – Comprehensive account of his record-breaking achievement
- “Free Spirit: A Climber’s Life” – His compelling autobiography
His candid prose offers unflinching insights into the extreme mental and physical toll of mountaineering, earning him numerous literary honours and cementing his reputation as both a pioneering climber and thoughtful storyteller.
Reinhold Messner’s Polical Career
From 1999 to 2004, Messner served as a Member of the European Parliament representing Italy’s Federation of the Greens. During his tenure, he championed environmental protection for mountain regions and authored a charter on preserving Europe’s mountain heritage.
However, frustrations with bureaucratic inefficiency led him to step away after one term. As he put it, the pace of political change was “painfully slow” for someone used to making life-or-death decisions in minutes rather than debating for months.
Reinhold Messner’s Mountain Museum Network
In 2006, Messner opened the first of what would become a six-location Messner Mountain Museum network across South Tyrol. These aren’t your typical dusty exhibition spaces – they’re immersive experiences that blend mountaineering history, local culture, and philosophical reflections on humanity’s relationship with the natural world.
The museums have become major tourist attractions, contributing significantly to both his income and his ongoing mission to educate people about mountain conservation.
Personal Life
Messner’s personal life has been as eventful as his climbing career, though perhaps not always as successful.
The Marriages
First Marriage: Uschi Demeter (1972-1977). His first marriage lasted five years but produced no children. The relationship couldn’t withstand the pressures of his increasingly demanding expedition schedule.
Long-term Partnership: Nena Holguin (1980s). His relationship with Canadian photographer Nena Holguin resulted in the birth of his daughter LÃ yla in 1981.
Second Marriage: Sabine Stehle (2009-2019) Marriage to textile designer Sabine lasted a decade and produced three children: Magdalena, Anna, and Simon. However, this relationship also crumbled under the weight of his relentless pursuit of new challenges.
Third Marriage: Diane Schumacher (2021-Present) At age 77, Messner married Diane Schumacher, a Luxembourger nearly 36 years his junior. They met at an event at his Bruneck Castle in 2018 and married in 2021.
Net Worth
Estimated Net Worth: £8-12 million (€10-37 million)
Pinpointing Messner’s exact wealth is tricky as he keeps his finances private, but financial experts estimate his assets between €30-37 million. His diverse income streams include:
- Book royalties from 80+ published works translated worldwide
- Speaking engagements at prestigious conferences and events
- Museum operations through the Messner Mountain Museum network
- Film consultancy and documentary appearances
- Property investments including two castles in South Tyrol
His business acumen has been as sharp as his climbing skills, successfully leveraging his mountaineering achievements into sustainable wealth through intelligent investments and diversified income sources.
Family Controversies
In a shocking turn of events, Messner’s 80th birthday in 2024 was overshadowed by a bitter inheritance dispute with his four children. The legendary climber, who conquered the world’s highest peaks, now faces perhaps his greatest challenge – repairing fractured family relationships.
Speaking candidly to various media outlets, Messner revealed that distributing his wealth to his children before his death was “one of the biggest mistakes of my life.” The situation has escalated to the point where he claims his children “hope I lose my mind so they can incapacitate me.”
His son Simon Messner has publicly contested these narratives, describing his father’s statements as “a shame and sad.” The family rift appears to have been exacerbated by the prominent role his new wife Diane, has taken in managing his legacy and business interests.
What’s Messner Up to Now?
At 80, Reinhold Messner remains remarkably active. While he’s no longer making death-defying ascents, he continues to:
- Develop his museum network with new exhibitions and locations
- Write prolifically – his latest book “Headwind” was published in 2024
- Give speaking tours worldwide, sharing his experiences and philosophy
- Advocate for mountain conservation and sustainable exploration practices
FAQs About Reinhold Messner
What makes Reinhold Messner’s climbs so special? His revolutionary “Alpine style” approach – minimal gear, no fixed camps, no bottled oxygen – transformed high-altitude mountaineering by prioritising speed, self-reliance, and environmental respect.
How did Messner fund his expeditions? Through book royalties, speaking fees, museum ticket sales, and film consultancy work, he ensures financial independence and creative control over his projects.
What awards has Messner received? Notable honours include the Piolet d’Or Lifetime Achievement Award (2010) and the Princess of Asturias Award for Sports (2018).
Is Messner still climbing? While he no longer makes high-risk ascents, he remains active through writing, museum development, and advocacy work.
Whether you’re into mountaineering or not, there’s something deeply inspiring about someone who consistently pushed beyond what others thought impossible. His legacy will continue influencing adventurers and dreamers for generations to come, proving that with enough determination, even the most impossible dreams can become reality.
Want to learn more about legendary mountaineers and their incredible stories? Keep exploring our adventure biography series for more inspiring tales of human achievement against impossible odds.